TBB NAMAU POST. FRFFpl?*. W. t., FRIDAY, JULY R, 1»1« Psge
DAY OF WAISTCOAT
Paris Sketches Predict Advance of the Long Garment.
0YP8Y GIRDLE QROWS INTO A BODICE; MEDICI COLLAR ARRIVES.
The girdle la ahown In thie afternoon frock of blue taffeta and allk voile.
The bodic* la slipped over the head and ends at each hip with a atream- I er. Thei voile Is embroidered In eoutaohe. The Medici collar ia of em*
broldered net on thIe oovvn of net, which ia worn over a biaolc satin
allp. The medieval ohemlaette la offset by a black velvet Jacket, which
faetene In front with a tasaei.
QUALITY, STYLE, TIMaY QUESTION
¦ -*'»*'^. *rr;KT«.*
Discussion of Apparel Uppermost
Topic of Women Wherever
They Foregather.
CAN DISCARD CHEAP GOWNS
Better Made Garment* Advocated by Some and a Battle Is On Among the Makers of Clothe»—Varie¬ ty Desirable.
little for quality or workmanship and spend all on style. It Is for this rea¬ son that America presents the most brilliant and dashing conglomeration of young women In the world. The shops cater to this Immense crowd, which prefers five cheap gowns that are BDiart^to one admirable gown that is conservative. ' —
It looks now as though American women are to be divided Into two camps—those who put all their money Into one conservative, well-built gown that must last, and those wbo now and then buy frocks that are chic and that incorporate the new fashion fea¬ tures.
Heights to Which Cheap Clothes Aspire.
America learned a good trick* from Paris when she arranged to have the best models Instantly copied in chebp materials, and sometimes slipshod workmanship, to be sold at small prices.
It Is this trick over here, however.
(New York.—One of the several dis¬ cussions which have been thrown into the modern hour—which breeds dls-. 4.„. , 4., ^ 1 * ^u ...... ^
cusslons as a held does mushrooms-; ?«* *« ^^^ despair of the high-priced ie whether it is better for a woman' <l;ee8makers and the delight of the to look for quality or for style Ini«^^« ?"* sell cheap clothes. her clothes, notes a leading fashion ^ , ^" dressmakers rest their Increas- correspondent. Ing optimism concerning high-priced
The ai^umentatlve and problematl-1 f^°f ^.^-f ° ^'^P""'*'"' tr^"^ k°°, ^^' cal side of the clothes is by no means' ^^ ^f' the dressmaking business a small Issue In the work of winning f?f °°^ r5!.':!i"tnV^' ^""^1,^^' tbe war. No woman has a soul so [?S..^f r.^ Zh Jn"^ ^^^^^ "'^ *" dead that she does not want to con-1 J^f ""J'^^ «°°^,'^"T" ^^^^ «^«™«! centrate her efforts In the right dlrec-l f«"7 ^°° ^""^ ">« "^^"^ 8°^°= "" tion, and to bring to all the minor' *^/'"«;';"°"^J7^'^,f«^°«t wear It
phases of life, which she may have ^ff^^ JL hf^ Tl .T .^^^ T
»,„_„,„, , i.u I woman who has a figure that departs
heretofore waved uway with a care-! , „ * .. "^i"""
, . ., J .... ... , irom the normal, cannot even contem-
less gesture the deep thought and ,^. ^ '
high efficiency which the hour de- P'"®^"!'! * J""^"' , ,^, ,
manjg However, ^^e must say this in
praise of thC' cheap ready-to-wear
frock In America: It Is cut on the
Once upon a time the talk of clothes
turned only to fabrics, shaping, acce»-
eorles ond colors. This was enough „„„ ,,„ „^^ ., . . ,
to gossip about, and It gavITEe^Gbftc' ^?2 ^ «£S£^ Jl SaO^ a price and the dVeismSkeri -ft lively time tE? ^sT workers of the Gul?rl
I most exceptionally good lines that
Even of the Oaleries La-
m
But we have gone upward—or down- jVflTd. whichever oue^wlshes^to call It ^In a series o?"^i)iral8 To anjjthey stratum of ulr. We are Intent upon the discussion of what Is good or bud, what !s cheap and nasty as op¬ posed to what is cheap nnd worthy In woman's apparel. Intelligent women, and otherwise, liud that the gauntlet of arguuieut thrown into the urenu Is Instantly snutched up by everyone Mho has a voice, and the problemut- Icul side of wur-tlnie appareling makes an eiiliveniug discussion that puts ecaudul, society uud love affairs In the background. Controversy Between Quality, Style.
This probleiu, which luit> been pre¬ sented to every woujun during the lust six months, us tu whether tilie should buy a guwu which lusts uud puy a big prlie for it, or buy one which she may diseurd suuii, und ut a much low¬ er price, is of high iuterest. It Is aettled by the Individual and yet it ia importuut tu the uuiss.
There is an advocate for each side In every crowd that foregathers to dlscuti» the problem; and, more to the purpose, there ure many udvocutes for each side iu the commercial ^rld.
The people wbo do exQuisite work are loud lu tbelr claims that it is l>et- t«r to pay a high price fur material aud wurkmaushlp, that will last as long us economy deuiauda, than to pay a tlftb of that price for a ready-to- wear gown that will fall apart after a fiew mouths' service.
Oppoalug this argument, and con- ductiug a brilliant and usually auc- ceasful offensive, is auutber line, uuide ttp of those wbo insist that lu a day like this women prwfer etyle to qual¬ ity and workmaoahlp; that they w<Hild rather pay eumewhere in the nelgb- borkood uf $30 fur a ready-iu-wear frock that lacurporates the newwat fashlou (tMlures aud gives one a Muart iddk. «v«ui if it lias to be thrown •way before loog.
It has always been tlie atetlkod ot s a aiuaU incotae. wka te 4nm fasitlimably. tw
miwm!iy^WO>i^omi^w^
fayette do not surpass, and some^ times do not equal, the Americaif cut¬ ters, who work by the hundreds on gowns that are sold by the thousands. We must have an exceedingly good national figure. That Is the comment of the forvigners who sec our women In the rendy-to-wear, qulck-to-buy, smurt-to-look-ttt, cheap gowns that ure sold in every city on this con¬ tinent.
Watch for Medici Collar.
Two women have worn French gowns with high, wired, out.standlng, Medici collars of lace and tulle. Don't let this fuct Slip your memory for an Instant, If you are vitally interested in the new things that come up sudden¬ ly over the horizon and promise many followers.
The Medici collar la a symbol of the history of human nature pressed Into a few short, mad yenrs of French life. It represents what tBe Three Feathers of Great Britain represent. It Is more than a fashion; It is the symbol of a dynasty.
Now and then. It has flickered In and out of fashion. It was taken up by other queens beside Catherine and Mary; It was worn by debutantes on stately gowns with trains a quarter of a century ago; it bus been maintained In a measure in half the courts of £urope, aud it may be revived thla summer.
It was made of point lace, wired to Its extremest points and worn with a black satin dinner gown that was guiltless of all trimmlug and received its high light from a string of pearls. It was also worn in a black embroid¬ ered net gown dropped over black satin, with a curious UtUa Jacket ot black velvet fastened In front, below the hip-line, with a gUtteriug tassel.
There are one-piece frocks creep¬ ing into tbe fkshlous that ahow tbe Medici collar of double tulle, kem- ¦tUcked at tbe edge, snd there sre soft voile gowus over colored taffsta that bave apstaudlog ueck ruflles of white chiltUa tkst sre deftly and catelaaaljr ImM up by wIms. lOawrrtgbt. Wm. by the MeCtws Meae.-
Premises to Be Dominant Feature of
New Autumn Clothee Which Will
Be Introduced In Auguet.
Last Jannsry, the women In Paris wore waistcoats of fnr, velvet, knitted wool and dyed homespun thst reached from the collar bone to fhe knees. The heads of dressmaking houses, who are rsrefnlly watched wherever they go, contributed to the fashion for these accessories by placing them In their own sulta.
America Introduced few of them, and she did not find even the short waistcoat of last Febmary. a snccees, declares a writer on fashion topics. It was worn by a few segmenta of Rmart women, fashionable and unfash¬ ionable, rich and poor, but the long w^atstcoat was treated as an outcast. It was not even recognised. But Prance persisted and the dressmakers In New York are putting It Into suits and frocks for gummer resorts. The prophecy runs thnt It will be a domi¬ nant feoture of new autumn clothes.
In a lorge bunch of Paris photo- gmphs that have come over, this long waistcoat Is repeated In many fabrics on women who are snapped as they go abont their new and active life. The sketches that come over from the big designers as heralds of what will be advanced In August, show the long waistcoat also. It la made In a differ¬ ent color from the gownj It Is used for protection of for beauty, and al¬ though It Is probably taken from the reign of Ix)nl8 XIV, It has none of the elegance or jauntlness of its prede¬ cessor. It merely looks worm and comfortable, or gay and colorful.
It is the longest waistcoat that has ever been worn by woman. It was matched In length by those worn at the court of the Grand Monarque. Looking ot It In Its most essential fea- ture^ It Is merely another way to straighten the figure. It, therefore, can be adopted by those to whom mid¬ dle age has brought an nndcslred ro¬ tundity.
DARK BLUE HELMET TURBAN
USE MADE OF FOOD CARTONS
Charming enough would be this dainty helmet turban alone, but ita dealgnere were not satisfied, so they added the charming summer veil. The hat is dark blue, covered with a multi¬ tude of summer flowers. The same flgy nigtlf l» carried out In the dark blurveMr'*'**r:s:^v;i!t-*ai-P'»r ..
RIBBON FOR DRESS TRIMMING
Many Beautiful Designs Being Effeo* tively Used; Never More Beau¬ tiful Than This Vear.
Ribbon plays an Important part In dress trimmings, accessories, etc., and never have they been more beautiful than they are this year. Many are Interwoven with gold and silver and some are formed almost entirely of dull gold or silver tissue.
There are ribbons of sntln with pals- ley spots In old-fashioned tln^s, and pale taffeta ribbons In rose, mauve and nattier blue, over which are sprinkled at Intervals "lucky" lady birds brocaded in dull gold or sli¬ ver.
Striped or checked faille ribbons are extremely fashionable, and among the novelties ore ribbons with long weaved fringe at the ends.
Various are the ways lu which these ribbons are utilized for frock trim¬ mings. They are introduced in the form of inset bunds, plaited, shirred or plain, and sometimes aa frtlllugs or ruchlngs.
Hats Off for Hair.
Keep your hat off as much as po*- slble. Hair cannot lie too easily .or loosely for its own health, and that of the nerves and head. Anything like pressure, heat or strain about the head wlU injure tbe brain and the flneat parte of the nervous system. Pulling the hair up too tightly from the back of the head and ears will cause the glands of tbe neck to swell. Notice what a relief It Is to take all your hair- plas oat of tbe hatr and let It baakf looae for a few hours.
If you adopt an etuy. artiatlc aad natural hair dresalac nervouaness wlU disappear aad tkeadaches win be em- known. It Is not only beueAdal to the. growth of the hair, but to ttM MTvea «C the bead ta wear It tied wtUi • ttUbem at tto aap* «f the aech, fMa
Oatnteal Centalnera Easily Trans¬ formed Into Attractive Bersp Bas¬ kets for the Table.
"Why In the world are yrm ftoovef Iflng all these ontmenl oartons? I «I- wnys hum mine," ssid the visitor In astonishment as her friend opened a cupb«>srd and disclosed a shelf filled with a collection of oatmeal cartons, the round kind.
"I will show yon," said her friend, leodlng the way into the living room and taking an object from the table. "What do you thinic of that? I call it a table scrap basket."
"A table scrap basket I" exclaimed the visitor. "What could be more use¬ ful and what could be prettier?"
"You know," explained her friend, "1 always save the odd lengths of wall paper left over. There Is a box full In the storeroom. One of these pieces of wall paper Is of a wonderful blue, the kind wtth green In it, a mat tint. I took a carton, cat and fitted the blue paper to it and pasted It on. Then there was another end of wall paper left over from the dining room frteie. It was a French paper showing a riot of gaily colored birds In a Jungle of leaves and flowers. From this paper a rich blue parakeet, balancing on a red stem, was cut and pasted on the darker blue background, taking care to paste it over the seam where tbe paper on the carton Is Joined together.
'Then the edges, top and bottom, were bound with furniture gulmpe which matches the blue paper. For handles I took two large rings such us are used for curtain, pulls, covered them with buttonhole stitching In black and hung them on either side of the carton, forming little drop handles. The bottom and Inside of the carton were dyed a deep red, harmonizing with the touches of red in the para* keet. Other cartons were covered with a light yellow paper and mounted with brown and yellow birds with gulmpe to motch and black handles.
"My table scrap baskets, I find, mak0 useful and much-appreciated gifts. And that is why I am Hooverizlng the oat¬ meal cartons."
CHIC SPOKT FROCK
Sleeveless Jacket May Be Sepa¬ rate Coat or Part of Dress.
For Summer Wear, Wool JeiMy Cloth,
Velveteen er Light Weight Velours
Is Suitable.
The sleeveless Jacket shown tn the sketch may either t>e a separate coat, as so many of them are, or It may be made to form part of the dress with which It la worn. If meant as a sep¬ arate summer sport Jacket, wool Jer¬ sey cloth, velveteen or lightweight eloura may be selected for It It may "be made a part of the dress, of which It is an accompaniment, by using a checked gingham or voile for the ma¬ jor portions of the garment and mak¬ ing Jacket and cuffs of plain color lin¬ en or crash. As here shown, the dress ls*a very simple, plain affair, waist and skirt being Joined by an Inch-and- a-half or two-inch wide plain belt at tbe normal waistline.
With the oddltlon of tbe sleevelesa Jacket, however, the garment be-
SAND PILE KEEPS TOTS BUSY
Affords One of the Greatest Amuse¬ ment for Youngsters—Can Model Clay Designs.
What else Is there with which little children's hands con be kept more sat¬ isfactorily occupied thnn sand? Just turn the children loose in a pile or table of sand, with a spoon, a pall, a cup or anything with which they can dig or shovel.
You do not Uke sand in the house?
If you have a suitable place for it, it need not make any trouble. An old kitchen table turned upside down, with the legs cut short and put on the other side, makes a good table for sand. A piece of burlap or denim placed under the table keeps the sand from being scattered over the house.
With clay, a simple little cradle may be made. The child flrst rolls a piece Into 0 ball, cuts It In half with a string. One of these halves forms the lower part of the cradle. The other he cuts in two, using one piece for the top and remodeling the other Into a "boll for baby."
Birds' nests with eggs can be mode with clay; also apples, oranges, cups and saucers, and even animals may be attempted.
VOILE AND ORGANDIE FROCK
Of the MMUur varietiea In attmmer freoks this vf veil* ataatfe Aut as a plsaelng and attraetlve drase. The frilled eroandie breaka the long skirt line, and is usad fer eoliarsb oMffs and
Rvvolvlng Tray, The revolving breakfast tray ts a comfurt witich Amertcaa w<Mueu would da weU to iMMTow fr«Ma their ttmgOttk
Summer Sport Dress With Sleeveless Jacket.
comes a very chick sport frock. The little coat Is cut quite plain In front, and the back Is centered by a wide plain panel. The belt is set under this back panel, brought around to tbe front, crossed and then drawn to the back again, where It 1b looped to form a sort of sash. The collar ar¬ rangement of this Jacket U worth ob¬ serving. It really distinguishes the entire garment. It does more than this, however; it holds the Jacket, of which It Is a part, properly In place, and gives the neck a trig, ship-shape look that Is not posblble with tbe open type of Jacket
A review of fall fabrics divulges the fact that plaids are to be very nauch in evidence next season, and the frock here shown might be very well devel¬ oped In plold worsted and plain color self fabric or velveteen, as a school frock for a girl of high school or col- legd fige.
However, fall Is some months dis¬ tant as yet, and for present wear the materials previously suggested, voile or gingham and plain color linen or crash, would bo very smart and serv¬ iceable.
TIME SHOULD BE CUNbERVl
Nothing Out of Fashion Now.
Can anyone tell exactly what, if any¬ thing, Is out of fashion at tbe present moment? In times gone by materials, trimmings and one thing and another were laid away as out of fashion, and from time to time various articles were brought forth from old chests that had hardly seen daylight for almost a score of years. But If there is any one thing out of the mode Just now It falls to suggest Itself to our memory.
Bead bags, although in use for some time, are quite as good as ever, but are too expensive to ever become overpop- ular, and now come some of the exquisitely embroidered bags quaint and beautiful. On frocks we see qui It- lug aud tiny quilted edges. Cording and any other form of decoration known to our grandmothers haa been called into service, tbe corners of the earth have beeu searched for inspiration and apparently nothing has been left which can be produced aa even a re¬ vived novelty.
Cameo Effeeta In Cotton. Cameo effects (two shades of a given color) are very much the thing ia printed dress cotton this year. Usually tbe priutlng is in lighter tone oa a darker ground, giving the cameo socvestlon, but the patterns may b« in scroll or stripe effect, uot soggestlve •f cameos—as one ordluarlly under staods the term. Thi »«luted cotton fualardi la tbeae caaaeo t^octa are saBTlaily sieasiac aad wlU sNike w» l»to cool. liMnvoaalva fracu ter wanu wsatfcar wear ia tM etnet. iMk a
Qeed Way Is to Work on Seheda Doing the Tasks ef the Day by Card System.
To do your various hnnmwli tasks—whether that includes worklafT your own vacuum cleaner, mnklnf your own war bread and tending your own hahy, or simply the more com¬ plicated task of directing ten servants —in any way hut on a schedule—Is a Inxnry and nn extravagance, declareg a student of home economics. Yoa may like to do it without putting tha wortt on a systematic basts. Ynu majr be too temperamental or too indolent to feel inclined to follow a ncbednle; but not to do so means to waote time, your own and other people's, and that is Just what neither yon nor anyoae else has any right to do during these war days.
The housewife haa her task of con¬ serving food supervised and directed by the food administration, and aha entrusts the task of providing her with enough coal to the fuel adroinl^ trotion. The department of labor takes It npon Itself to conserve infant life aad through widespread educa¬ tion al work to cut down Infant and child mortality. Trees are conserved and wheat la conserved and tin la conserved. Doesn't it seem aa If there ought to be a time conservert Time this summer Is as precious aa these other thinga we have been con* serving. Without making the beat oae of our time we shall not have time to roll surgical dressings of which the Red Croas la in such dire need. Yoa cotild not tend your w%r garden or do any of the doien other extra dotlea you have taken npon yourself to da Really every women must be a tlma coDservatlon department onto heraelf. The best way to make the best of your time Is to work on a schedola and to make a wise schedule for all the people who work nnder yonr dl« rectlon.
Such a schedule Is easily kept If you write down each day's required tasks on a plain card. The seven cards can be fastened together and hung np In a convenient place, the cards to be turned back to the right plod as the days go by as a conitant reminder.
FAVORITE MONTH FOR BRIDES
June Deatined to Hold the Plaoe Dear
to the Heart of the WIfe-to-Be—
Bridal Gowns.
June has many glories, but no ooa that rivals Its favor as a bridal mouth. That war should give Its ro¬ mance an added thrill may well In¬ vest its flowered splendor with a new significance dear to sentiment and vl- tal to promoters of the picturesque. The bride has the center of the stage, particularly when she has a soldier beside her. His raiment Is fixed by code. Her's has more latitude, yet fashion arrogantly prescribes methods for her also. Veils have their own vigartes, at the brow nnd in tbelr lengtb. Yet types ore close, as every woman knows, to a prevailing ideal, as for example, in the persistent' shortness of skirts no matter whether the veil be long or short. The remit Is to recall the quaint days of Wat- teau, when slippers played so pretty a part in the pictorial scheme of things. Eyes and smiles, it may be remarked, are still In fashion I
IS HANDY FOR SUMMER WEAR
Rather dlstlnetlve bseldaa wtlUtarkp Is this handy ellp-en sweater. H la made of silk brsid that la II^M fer tbe hettaat weatlMr.
Olngham Sllka. Becauaa good ginghams bave gOM up ta price, and becaase tba efctaiw gtBgkaaia axa aot flsilrabla. cvaaa ktr and plaid veUas ue taking tMt places. Tha glafkaB tOkm, a aiUlMi j a( allk and cattoa. aad la pattva UMl"' wm 4a«aiM
