Nassau Post 19180628; Title

              THE NASSAU POST.  FREEPORT. N. Y., FHIDAY, JUNE 2R. Iftlft
SUBSTITUTE FOR
i
DINNER GARMENT
English Tea Gown  Adopted by
America Because of Artistic
Value and Comfort.
WAR INFLUENCES FASHIONS
  I
Rivalry Result* in Introduction ef the "Rainbow" Qown,  In  Honor ef Flrat Fighting Division to i Oo Abroad.
New York,—The world goes nn re- Tlvlng old things and calling them new. This Is not only true of the stupehtlous i •pectacle of wnr In lt« moat barbaric form, assertB n prominent fashion crit¬ ic, but It Is true of the minor accidents and hnppenlnKS thnt flutter throngh "this ImhroKllo cnlled life."
Observe fnahlons. The designers dip their handB deep Into the boiling pot of ancient lands, history nnd peoples, and pull out of It demure or fantastic things, which they dress up ti hit and ' give over to a most modern people, who accept them ns new.
At present the designers are dipping more deeply than ever. They seem to be frantlciilly pulling out odds and ends of flotsam nnd Jetsam thnt must serve to whet the iippetltes of those who hnve money. '
Garden  Hati and Tea Qown*.        |
It  seemed   a fitting  thing today  to i revive the simplicity of Civil wnr cos- turnery,   nnd   therefore   we   see    ap-: proaching us nn era of printed mus¬ lins,   garden   hats,  pastel   colors   and Colonial flchus.
Along with these fashions comes that Intimate nnd usually alluring gar- meDt called the tea gown. It Is as much a part of the English social sys¬ tem ns five o'clock tea, cricket and par- ' llament. The French hnve always plnced their reliance upon the garment •which they call the "robe d'lnterleur." But the American hnd nothing to place Leslde these two.
When this remark wns once mndn to a ITrench designer she lifted her eyebrows in surprise nnd asked, "But Is there not the Mother Hubbard?" There wns, she wns assured, but It was not the kind of garment of which she would approve.
But here In America  todny we are rapidly learning the artistic vnlue and comfort   of   the   British    ten    gowns, which someone once described as the only renlly   soft thing  In the British! nation.      That  statement  was  made, towever,   before  the  English  woman had learned to copy the arts and the Itrflces  of  face  and  figure from   the French, and  when she  still wore her i stiff, unyielding, ugly clothes; ber big boots;     straight,     mannish     Scotch ', tweeds, and raglan coats.
The Hbgllsh  tea gown  has spread , over the civilized world, alongside  of the English five o'clock ten, which even i
hurp  tanght   her   the   economy   •nd pleiiMnre of It.
Itlnok, midnight bine, olive irr<'*n- h^lgp nnd munitions gray have ruled the outdoor cnsfnmery of the French p«»opIe since August, lft14. They have worn white only nt mnnntnin and aea- ahnse resorts, nnd then It wns re¬ stricted to sport clothes for the morn¬ ing hours.
The P'renrh are qnlto willing to wear dark nnd demwre clothes In the street, but they ease np the depression of their spirits by adopting colors In their own homes. At the opera, the play. In public restnurnnfs, one aees clothes in somber colors; hut In the French homes)—esT>ecln1ly In fhe Paris houses, where women are Involved In a social system—there la n brilliant display of the Krttlsh ten gown. It solves the problem; It satisfies the need for color; It does not flaunt Itself In tb« fiC* et
CORSET AND GRACE
Provides the Foundation for Well Fitting Garments.
Indoor robe with cape of ailver lace. The gown is of soft gray silk, which Is plaited and clings to the figure. it Is tied at the waist with a coral silk cord, and the cape has a rolling collar.
tbe American soldiers l>ehlDd tbe French buttle front have leaned to desire.
Tbe British wear two sets of cos- tuniery at that' hour In the afteruuuu, and both of these are introduced tbie suiuuier; th« flowered luuslin with tbe blK shade bat, aud tbe alluriug tea Kowu with ItM fuucifui coloring aud its loose {race.
ftubetltuts   It for Dinner Qown.
Oue of titt) teaauatf that Aiuericu te weMliiK this tea gowa at and aftei th« Ave o'clock Iwur Is that the Freacb
Sumptuous gown with long mantle. Purple and gold tissues are com¬ bined In this garment. The purple and gold oriental sash which drapes the hips ends in a gold embroid¬ ered panel in front, and the sleeves are of draped gold and purple tulle.
the public. It is worn intimately, cheerfully and artistically In one's own home.
About the beginning of January the Americans saw tlie attractiveness of this Iden, nnd it wns ndopted In a wide area of houses where women dress well. In the smartest private homes ten gowns were substituted for dinner gowns. In the French fashion.
There hns been little disposition on the part of the American woman to put a great deal of money into an ex¬ ceedingly decollete evening gown, al¬ though hundreds more have been pur¬ chased thnn the public realizes. Bui the average woman, whether she was plnced in high or In middle society, felt that ahe would prefer to put her money into a house gown that gave her the chance to wear oolora. America's   Contribution.
We are becoming quite self-assured In designing clothes these days, and have made such rapid progress thnt we do not rest entirely upon what Others give us.
"When the dressmakers found that women who spent different amounts of money nnd moved In different kinds of social life were asking for tea gowns, there Imraedlntely Jumped up n kind of rlvnlry among the workers to see who could get out something startling and good.
The especial contribution In which this rivalry hns resulted is the rain¬ bow tea gowns. Wo have already found out thnt we nre la for a "rain¬ bow" season. Whoever named the first fiphtlng division thnt went to Frnnce hud n happy Inspiration—it gave the word to a hundred iictivltli's lu this country. The iinuie lliekers from the stage, on posters, gowns and huts, and now It seems to have found an admirable setting In the new tea gown.
Elaborate  Japanese  Style.
France has sent to us a striking tea gown tliat Is belMK copied. It is made ns an elaborate Japan,es<> kimono. The material is extra-broad black nnd white striped satin. There is a flicker of white hue niul a bit,of white satin, and tlie robe Is couiplete.
All of the house robes that are to he substituted for dinner gowns this spring and summer do not' owe their Inspiration to the exotic East. There are other epochs and other fashions from which the designers draw.
Tho early nineteenth century has been found proiittc in Ideas. The tea gowns which are taken from that time are someiluies more suitable for the average woman than tbe more compli¬ cated draperies.
These are made of flowered chiffon, printed voile and silk net, and thoy are run beneath tbe bust, after the manner that obtained In the Dlrectoire, with broad i;|bbons of old blue, pale pink and Chinese yellOw. They are half low and round iu tbe neck, aud have abort puffed sleeves. (Copyrlaht, MIS. by the McClur« Mvwipa- p«r Syndloat*.)
Season of Vests and  Vetteet la Fuf
ther Demand for Service of Cor-
Mts That are Right
Ton wouldn't expert to stnnd flrffl If the foundation were faulty. That Is the flrst thought in building a house —a good ffnmdatlon which Is Intended not only to preserve the nnlty of the building that Is to come, hut also to be the means of holding It In place. Later, all the finishing touches can be sddeA tft aiake the house beautiful. What Is trne of the house should also be true of your costuming. He sure that the fotmdatlon—the corset—Is right. This is the beginning, after¬ ward you can add to It benutlful clothes for usefulness nnd adornment.
Correct corsets are even more im¬ portant this yenr thnn ever before, as¬ serts an authority. If you hnve any desire to look ntrnctlve, nnd every womnn should hnve a keen sense of the value of always looking her best, not only does the silhouette demand that there be a good figure beneath, hut tbe acces.sorles nlso demand that the corset be well fitting, for this Is n senson of vests und vestees, which will not nnd cnnnot look smnrt or fit well unless the underneath fits well.
There Is no need these dnys for nny woman to buy a corset nt rnndorn or to wenr a corset thnt is In nny way un¬ comfortable, for there is such a varfety of shapes, sizes nnd mensurements that, no mutter what your need may be, there Is a corset mnde to fill your re¬ quirements.
Just buying n corset, bocnuse It Is made of pretty mnterlnl Is not being done by women who wish to be well gowned nnd comfortable. Such wom¬ en appreciate the fnct thnt It Is Im¬ possible to pick up a corset from tho counter and by holding It In the hnnd decide that the corset has the correct lines for her figure.
The time spent In the retnll shop, having a corset tried on to determine If it is the right one for you, repays a hundredfold, and every fcuoti novmunyS would far rather go to the trouble of trying on corseis In order to have the customer content. It is also n great aid In overcoming the return goods trouble.
Certain it is thnt if the stnrt isn't right the finish can't be whnt you de¬ sire for no mater how good looking your clothes mny be the foundation must be well fitting.
^
LITTLE CUBES AND   BLOCKS
ATTRACTIVE SUMMER FROCK
Flesh-colored taffeta is the material of this lovely frock, which is a foun¬ dation of cream-embroidered organdie and a charming fichu collar of the aame.
Frocks for Young Qlrla. Organdie and net by the yard, with ruflliogtk aud platings attached, is made into some very attractive frocks for youQK girls. These fabrics may be otade into skirts that sr« nut too Imuf- ftuit fur tbe present aaode. Sumetiuics a net foundntlou abows applied tucks of plug orgaudle. Again an organdie founds tiuu tuis titxjf fluUojpi Oif scU- coiored organdie.
Mouth Veil Is Latest. Just to prove that variety Is all that Is needed in the world of fashion to interest femininity, gaze on the new veils which are designed for afternoon and evening wear and already show signs of becoming popular. Tbe new veil swathes the lower half of the face, giving the upper half a rest, and reaches from the tip of the nose to far below tbe chin. Smart women are probably growing tired of the nose veil aud tbe veil for the chin and mouth will doubtless be a- welcome change. Tbe barem veil, which made its appearance last summer ou tbe bathing beaches, suggested the new one aoU tbe designers, disregarding tbe original purpose of tbe beach veil as a protector from tbe sun, are us¬ ing the idea for evening wear. It la never worn with a bat aud" is tied about tbe bead like a scarf.
In Dyeing Anything. Rememl>er, In dyelnf anything, thai to get the beet results tbe tblugs ttvut yoa dye iuu«t be free from dirt. Bull tbeni cltutn lu a teller of water aud tbeu rlase then: tboroujtlily lu clear «old n^ter.
Smart Chippendale Poulards Supplant¬ ing Comnienplsce Dots and the Coin Speta.
Chippendale prints In foulnrd wenvM nre among the fnshlon sncressos of tho new senson. notes n fashion writer. In place of the more commonplncp dots nnd colti spots one notes dice motifs— little cubes and blocks In white, tan, flesh nnd In certain of the approved high colors on a barkgroiind of black, lark blue, brown or gray. These Chip¬ pendale prints nre repented In geor¬ gette crepes nnd In them one sees nlso spreading floral nnd foliage pattern.* IIS well as wlndow-pnne designs, most Httractlve In their simplicity.
Silk tricot Is extremely hard to get with the correct ridge pfferf which Is a characteristic of this season's weave. Not only for sport .wear but also In combination with satin, wool Jersey, serge and foulard Is the silk tricot In request. And right here It mny he mentioned thnt the conrse weaves nre the ones thnt hnve received thp In¬ dorsement of Pnrls. Indeed, some of them look more like open silk hnnd meshes than like a woven cloth. It la In alliance with the Levnntlne foulards  hat the loosely knit Jersey silks show off to best ndvnntnge. Such foulards hnve n heavier twill nnd more body than the nvernge silk of thnt wenve.
Silks have advanced In price like everything else, hut It Is well to re¬ member that they nre renlly eco¬ nomical In their best qualities. Chenp fabrics hnve ndvnnced to even n grentr er degree thnn the better grndes be¬ cause the price of Inhor Is Just as grent In connection with these as with su¬ perior qualities. As one authority puts It, tlie cheaper materials hnve tripled In price, while the better grades have hardly doubled.
FLOWERED TOQUE IS REVIVED
Blossom-Bedecked   Headgear   Is  Much
in Favor With Matronly Women
After Several Seasons.
The flowered toque hns been reviv¬ ed again nnd Is much worn by mntron- ly women. Several sensons hnve elaps¬ ed since the small flower-covered hat received nny particular attention. . An especially effective model of this type was worn hy n hirtre nnd di^'nlfu'd wornan with a full-lcMKth broadtail coat made with ii sliawl collar and deep cufTs of chliichlllfi. The close fitting toque which topi)e(l this hand¬ some gnrnient wns covered with smnll white lines. Each flower was plnced individually nnd stood out from the others. A piece of narrow black vel¬ vet ribbon was worked In and out among the lilies around the front nnd sides and ended In n cluster of bows nt the back.
Violets frequently appear In these tlower-crowned hats. Mnny of the red flowers are nlso used.
The flower named ragged sailor was attractively applied on one close-flt- tlng model set off with two slender upstanding wings. A flne mesh veil with a heavy velvet scroll completed the hat, whkh was worn by a young womun in a braid trimmed tailored suit of blue velour.
For renovating purposes floral cam¬ ouflage works mlrncle.s. Where the crown is fnded or sunburned, cover It with a thntched effect with flowers nnd foliage. Two or more kinds are used, according to personal preference aud available trimmings. Brims are llkewl.se overlnid nnd smartly veiled with tulle and net.
STILL A FAVORITE
Straight   Chemiselike   Garment Has Not Been Abandoned.
May  Be   Prominent   Among the  Fall
Styles,  According to a Recent
Statement From Paris.
The frock here shown Is n copy of one of the latest Pnrls models, de¬ signed by a fnmons French costumer nnd brought over by one of the fore¬ most Amorlcnn Importers. It wns de¬ veloped, ns orlglnnlly shown. In white and nnvy sntln, with embroidery In a dull, rich red. This frock wns one of the surprises of the French showing, a fashion writer stntes, ns It served to put a question mnrk after the re- iternted statement that atrnlght line, chemise-type gnrmrnts were ou't of the nmning this yenr, nnd thnt a wnist- llne Indlcntion ahout this frock is the result of the fnbric comblnntton, and certnlnly thnt Is not sufficient to make one blind to the fnct thnt It is a straight chemlsellko garment, touch¬ ing the figure practically only nt the shoulders.
This mny possibly bo n forerunner of whnt /ail will show In the line-up of cliothes, if thp stntement of recent date from Pnrls thnt straight lines will be the thing for fnll mny be tnken as correct.
The gown shown mny he mnde a slipover, If desired; but It would be easier to fashion nnd more easily put on If fastened In the center back, and
COOL PAJAIMAS FOR SUMMER
Warm weather has brought about this charming creation In feminine pajamae, where sleeves have been dis¬ carded In the interest of comfort. Wel¬ come, toe, is the extreme llghtnees of the material, which will be conducive to cooifieee In the eummer. Myriads of tiny tucks and plentiful ue« of fine val lace Und plsaelng relief to these pajamsui ef flesh-oeler crops de ehino. Satin ribbon drawn under the tucks about the waiet augseste a etender girdle.
Chemise  Type   Frock   of   Navy   and White Satin.
the fabric selection may be varied to suit the Individual taste, complexion and season.
The skirt, as will be noted. Is n graceful, ankle-length nnd this gen¬ eral rule for skirt length Is applied to vlrtunlly nil the suits and dresses shown for spring and summer.
The snsh belt, with ends tied at one side, Is n pretty feature of this frock, Incldentnlly, i. may be noted thnt sashes of all kinds ore the vogue this season. Quaint dresses of white and colored voiles, of dotted swlss, geor¬ gette nnd other sheer fal)rics are de¬ veloped for Kiiinnier, with wide ribbon sashes In blending or contrasting col¬ or as their aceonipanlment. One In¬ teresting feature Is the great quantity Oa navy ribbon used. Where blnck wns formerly employed nnvy has been sub¬ stituted.
FASHIONS AND   FADS
Net frocks for wee girls have sashes of net.
Dyed panama Is a feature of the new millinery.
Silks and metui ribbons appear in floral patterns.
Afternoon dresses often bave flaring sleeves.
Homespun is a good choice for an everyday coat.
Sunbonnet9 are in great vogue for small girls.
General utility coats are made of Scotch mixtures.
The present mode in halrdresslng demands height.
T^e blgh-crowned tailor bat is in evidence.
Straight-front Jackets of the blazer type are seen.
Tbe latest handbags are made wltb frames of wood.
Tbe ueweat corsets luivo Pbillppine work for decoration.
Touchee Are Nev«L
Bmbrolderlea aud fagoting are nsed in very clever ways. The embroideries are not used io tbe form of rufllea, but are flatly placed tu ecceutuaie tbe tup of tbe taeoi ur a pialt or pocket, and tbe fagutluK done liy hand outlines panels or buida together btuMts of ooi^ trsatlflf colon.
MUCH IN LITTLE |
thiple-* springs hnve been Invented by a Cnllforninn, an sutlllary spring coming Into action If the main one, breaks or la overloaded. I
A man who Is connected with  the heavy field artillery  Is no more likelt ' to ho killed thnn on«» In the employ of a rnllrnad, army officers say. j
St, TiOnIs la experimenting with SOT- , rotmding traffic policemen at night | with light thrown from sonrchilgbts , mounted on nenrhy buildings. ^
I'nrls   hns estnbllshed a museum of the horse, presenting a complete  his- ] tory of   the anlmnl   from the earliest known period to the present day.
To equnlize nnemployment In the winter months, numbers of Seattle (Wnsh.) Painters' union will work five dnys a week,   Saturday will be the oft
day.
Withont counting 1,41!1 men already serving In dockynrils and military sta¬ tions on tho outhronk of the war, n,051 London police officers are engaged In wnr service.
The Grent Western Rnllwny system i extends  over .1,008 miles, thus taking first   place   In   the   United   Kingdom The Northwestern comes second, with 1,90,9 miles.
f««««<«i««««««««-«i««««««««-«i«|
SELF-STARTERS
Be    a    self-stnrter nhend in the world.
and   get
Don't be the kind that must be addressed In nn angry tone If they are to be impressed.
Such a man gives honest serv¬ ice nt all times, nnd this Is what counts In the work-a-dny world.
It should be sufllclent for any employer or superior officer to pleasantly request certain serv¬ ices from you.
Don't be the sort of an em¬ ployee who must have Instruc¬ tions pounded into him before they have any effect.
It is too expensive to hire men to work and then have to hire others to watch them every min¬ ute thnt proper service may be secured.
There are two kinds of men In this world—those who have to be "cranked up" and self-start¬ ers. As employees the flrst are unprofitable.    Therefore:
The willing worker, tbe man who acts immediately upon In¬ structions which are pleasantly given to him. Is the sort of em¬ ployee who is worth having.
The man who must be whacked nnd pounded into ac¬ tion is uo good in any establish¬ ment, and the sooner such men get the gate the better for their employers.
CHUJSIKS OF INFORMATION
There are more than 200,000 stam¬ merers In the United  States.
New Mexico has a lizard which is re* puted to squirt blood from its eyes.
Nine-tenths of Russia's gold mining Is done on lands owned or formerly owned by the czar.
One of tbe easiest ways to cool an overheated oven Is to stand a basin of cold water in It.
Development of water power In Nor¬ way has made electricity cheaper than steam In that country.
France Is tho best foreign patron of the United States patent oflice, with Great Britain following closely.
Cameo cutting, one of the most an¬ cient occupations, has reeently been introduced Into the United States.
Must of Japan's pearl divers are women, who begin to learn the trade ut the age of thirteen  or fourteen.
Iron embedded lu concrete In Qer- mauy has beeu found to be free from rust after  more tlian forty-flve years.
California is a large producer of bar¬ ley, im^re than 35,000,(XX) bushels be¬ ing the 11)17 crop In tbe Sacramento valley,
Chicago has more telephones than ull France aud a single office building lu New York contalus more than there ure in tbe whole of Greece.
A New Jersey woman has lnvent«<l a mesh bag to bold a door key aud prevent It from being lost among the contents of a pocketbook or sbopplnc bag.
Tbe average annual meat product from tbe Tonto national forest of Arl- zooa and the Humboldt national tor- est in Nevada la eeUmated at RUUU.- 000.
Having foand a way to remove tb* kuots and bleach tbe pulp, a ''laat C#r tb<* maaofacture of paper frt> u bam* boo will be estsbliabed la Trialdad bf. Scotch IntaraatiL